BLACKBERRIES, RIPE RED RASPBERRIES & VIOLETS, SOFT Wander due south from the industrial cityscape of Milan, and after a few miles Italy really starts to look like ITALY. Tucked in the gentle hills of around Pavia sits Tenuta Mazzolino, run by a French-Italian family specializing in Pinot Noir. This easy-going example is lush and approachable with soft floral notes and ripe red fruit. It fits right in with other high-quality, low-price Pinot, except with a strain of acidity that marks it as uniquely Italian. Almost Dolcetto-esque. Serving Suggestion: A good match for light pastas with a bit of spice. Spaghetti with cracked red pepper, garlic, pecorino and herbs comes to mind.